MONCHIQUE in the Serra de Monchique range of hills is usually approached from the south on the EN266, a particularly lovely drive in late February and early March when roadside mimosa bushes are in brilliant yellow bloom. On the way up, stop at the village of CALDAS DE MONCHIQUE, which has been a spa for at least 2,000 years. It sits in a well-wooded little ravine which resounds in early summer to the song of nightingales.

The Romans appreciated the curative powers of the waters here in the days of Augustus Caesar. In medieval times, King João II sought a cure for dropsy. In recent years, many visitors to the local clinic have benefited from various water therapy treatments for rheumatism, back pains and respiratory and muscular complaints. There is a residential block for visiting patients, but it only operates during the summer months.

At the top end of the village is a tree-shaded walk and picnic area, a square and cafés with outside tables, and a pavilion where you can slake your thirst free on natural spring water straight out of the ground. Unfortunately, it tastes rather like rotten eggs. At the lower end of the village is a commercial bottling plant producing water which tastes a lot better. The whole of Caldas is undergoing a process of improvement and renovation, but hopefully its quiet, old-fashioned charm will be retained.

Monchique is a market town for the products grown or hand-made in the surrounding hills, especially timber, cork, smoked ham, honey, aguardente, basketwork, leather goods and woollen sweaters.

Take a wander around the narrow, cobbled streets in the vicinity of the parish church with its Manueline doorway and polychromatic tiles. Eating in Monchique is optional, but drinking is obligatory. Find a hole-in-the-wall bar and ask for a shot of "medronho". You might like it and come away with a litre of the stuff disguised in a coke bottle. The ladies might prefer the taste of the locally-made "brandymel", a honey-tasting brandy liqueur.

At the square, on arrival at Monchique, the main road bears right and heads on up over the scenic hills towards the province of Alentejo in the direction of Lisbon. Curve left around the square and follow the FÓIA sign to reach the Algarve's highest point at 900 metres. The road runs all the way up beyond the tree-line to the rocky summit which, unfortunately, is not itself a beauty spot due to a forest of telecommunications towers and aerials and a no-go military installation.

The many restaurants on the right-hand side of the road from Caldas to Monchique and from Monchique to Fóia are renowned for their finger-lickin' chicken piri-piri lunches. Price and service in all are about the same. On Sundays they are all crowded with Portuguese families up from the coast.


Visit: Câmara Municipal de Monchique